
At each long communal table at Philippe's, strangers rub elbows with strangers, and spicy mustard in clear plastic jar is passed from one diner to the next. There are four or five wooden public phone booth by the front entrance, clearly lost in their purpose to society, but nevertheless provided the place with nostalgia that goes so well with the famed French Dip sandwich. The beef is sandwiched by a french roll, with the top end (or both, if you like) submerged in au jus. The exterior crispy; the interior laden with juiciness. The hour is approaching lunch time, and the crowd is only getting denser. The bus boy patrols up and down each single narrow lane between tables, to clear away finished trays. I am engrossed in the sandwich and the scene. The Dostoevsky novel serves no purpose this late morning.

Despite the airiness inside, sunlight was pouring down outside, though the temperature is mild for an August day. I put on the iPod headphone, listening to
French Ecole lesson one to four --
Bonjour! Salut! Au revoir! Tres bien! -- and started the walking tour of Chinatown and nearby community prescribed by
Angels Walk LA. The walk included the LAPL Chinatown branch, and I ended up spending an hour inside browsing the wealth of Chinese language materials. The tour itself was not remarkable, but there were few things that I missed on prior visits, such as Chung King Road, the Alley nearby and Bruce Lee's studio.
On the raised platform of Chinatown Station, waiting to catch the light rail train to Union Station,

one is offered a panoramic view of the city shrouded in a semi-gauze. The rather long wait on the sleepy platform was conducive to self-introspection, from the weighty to the frivolous. The weight of summer semester has just been lifted off my shoulder, and the remaining three weeks are free for whatever whim I have, so long they don't cost more than $40 over a weekend. That is correct. I live so cheaply as a result of my tuition fees and the desire to travel as much as my finance and time allowed. I repeat to myself:
lundi, mardi, mercredi, jeudi...

Then it hit me, all of a sudden, the notion that I can't get a date in this city is simply that in my circle of acquaintance, and they are limited in numbers, sadly, almost no one shares any of my interests or views. In their eyes, I am the perculiar donkey that traverse downtown via public transportation and reads Dostoevsky and Henry James for hobby and listens to French-learning podcast, rather than clubbing in Hollywood three nights a week or showing off their latest Lexus or boast about how great Southern California is by not going anywhere or join a church. It is time for a new circle.
The light rail took me back to the Union Station through which I transferred to the subway line and exited Pershing Square Station toward 4th street, where the
Grand Central Market is located.

The open-air market has a distinctive Latino flavor to it, with stalls selling Mexican spices, taco stands and fruit seller being the most prominent. I have always loved open-air markets, from Vancouver's upscale Granville Island to sawdust-covered Grand Central to the less-glamorous neighborhood morning markets in Taipei. As a small kid I would be holding my mother's hand while she complains to the butcher about the price of pork and urging him to throw in a free batch of leek to compensate it. The scene in itself is indelible, and I recall with fondness whenever I need to escape from reality.
On the way home, I stopped by the Central Library, checked out 續集, an
Eileen Chang (張愛玲) short stories collection. In it a particular passage I especially like, and in my clunky translation, they are:
"I buried my face in the rice bowl while sweeping up the rice, [to hide my] spirit walking on cloud nine, it was the most glorious moment of my life."
This was a scene in which Chang was about eight or nine and the family was gathered for a meal. Chang was already considered a genius at young age. She detected a slight medicinal taste in the chicken soup despite no one at the table had suspected. The perspicacious mother inquired and confirmed that the cook had earlier fed the live chicken some home remedy when it appeared sick in the yard.
I could not help it but to smile silently at the printed page 38.